Applying Veneer with the Iron-on Process

The following is a description of a process for applying paper-backed veneer to a substrate using woodworking glue and a standard clothing iron. In this particular case, I used Titebond III because that's what I had in stock. Regular Titebond or any similar glue will yield the same results.



After cutting the veneer to a size slightly larger than the substrate, I tape it (backside up) to a piece of plywood or MDF to keep the glue off the bench surface. Apply a liberal amount of glue to the back of the veneer.


Spread the glue using a short-nap roller of a size suitable to the project.


Here, I'm applying glue to the substrate. This is the flat back panel of the toe kick of a chest of drawers. The substrate material is 3/4" MDF.


Allow the glue to dry to a point where it's set up, but still soft, then roll another coat onto the substrate and veneer.


When the second coat of glue has reached the "tacky" stage, it's time to apply the veneer to the substrate.

Note: This is a good time to turn on the iron to allow it to heat up. Start with the iron at a medium setting. It's a good idea to test the tolerance of the veneer to a particular heat setting, especially with fragile veneers.


Carefully align the veneer onto the substrate before pressing it into place. Using this process allows a degree of shifting the veneer around on the substrate unlike contact cement.


Smoothe the veneer onto the substrate with your hand or, as I'm doing here, with a burnishing tool.


Apply light pressure with the iron as you begin heating the veneer. Following behind the iron with a burnishing tool aids in maintaining good adhesion as the glue begins to cool. Keep the iron moving so the veneer doesn't burn. The amount of heat and rate of movement will vary depending on the thickness and type of veneer used. The veneer I'm using on this toe base is very good quality with a thick layer of walnut over a heavy backing.

Note: Almost any type of clothing iron will work with this process. I picked this one up at WalMart for less than $7.


When the veneer is adhering at all points from the heat application, continue burnishing as the veneer cools to ensure good adhesion.


Test the adhesion by lifting an edge or corner of the veneer. If there is any lifting continue to apply pressure or additional heat until the veneer is securely adhered.


I generally trim the excess veneer with a razor knife, although I'll use a laminate trimmer in some circumstances.


Sand the trimmed edges and surface of the veneer and it's ready for finish or, in this case, application of the next section of veneer..


To match the corners of the chest of drawers, the toe base also has radii on the two front corners. For a continuous grain pattern, I'll run a single piece of veneer from one back corner around each radius and terminate at the other back corner.


After preparing the substrate and veneer as in the previous example, I align it to center the veneer on the center of the front of the substrate. Since this is very heavy veneer, I apply water to the points of the veneer where it will wrap around a radius. The burnishing tool aids in initial adhesion of the veneer to the substrate.


Add heat with the iron and pressure with the burnishing tool to "massage" the veneer around the radius. This step takes a bit more patience than working on a flat substrate, but it's worth it to get a clean appearance.


As you can see, the veneer is now completely adhered to the substrate around this 3/4" radius as well as the flat sections of the toe base.


Here's a close-up of the veneer wrapped around the radius corner of the toe base.
Home